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The pHormulate System allows and encourages the colorist to formulate with N levels and/or the additives to correct problems as well as prevent them from happening. As a general rule, to cool any shades, add to the chosen N Series formula, especially level 7-10 where the orange is most likely, ¼ oz- 3/8 oz of Drabber Adjuster to “drab” the warm tendencies. To create a mild influence of spun gold, you can add ¼ oz of 9N back to your formula; this will not affect the level, only the tone. If you want or need to create a warm beige tone in your formula to kill brassiness but still keep it warm, you would add ¼ oz of Drabber Adjuster and ¼ oz of 9N. You also have the option to neutralize the orange while preserving a subtle golden influence by adding up to ½ oz of Cool Gold Adjuster to the formula.

In this situation you will probably need to not only blend the root area with the desired previously colored hair, but will also need to refresh the all over color as well. Remember, natural or virgin hair indicates that the scalp will always be darker than the ends, keep this in mind. With the pHormulate System you can do this in one application. First, as always, you should select the desired formula based on the client’s desired end result by consulting the Natural Series guide in the pHormulate Swatchbook and the Lift and Deposit Chart. Once you have mixed your formula, apply this to the new growth overlapping slightly with the previous color. As needed pull the color thru to color all of the hair and process based on the timing recommendations. The pHormulate System’s unique formulation will ensure that color that is on the new growth and the colored hair will process evenly.

Try and determine if the hair is at the right level, but dull and drab, or if the level itself is too dark. As a professional, you know that these are two very different things, but sometimes clients may have different interpretations of the situation, so communication is important. If the level is a correct match, but appears to be too drab you are able to address and improve this scenario at the shampoo bowl. To brighten the hair, mix 1 oz of 0 and 1 oz of the desired level from the N Series to 1 oz of Demi and 1 oz of 10 Volume Developer. Apply from scalp to ends for 5-10 minutes and then remove using pHormulate Clarifying Shampoo and Conditioner to neutralize the alkalinity and remove the color. If the client comes to you with hair that is simply too dark, apply 2 oz of 10N mixed with 2 oz of 10 Volume color developer with 1 level scoop of Energizing Powder. Apply to the hair starting ½” away from the scalp and pull thru the middle of the hair to the ends. When the hair is lifted halfway to the desired end result, go back and apply to the scalp being sure to expose all affected hair to the mixture and leave on until the excessive darkness is neutralized. In the event it seems that the neutralization process has slowed down, rinse the original formula and repeat the process. Then proceed to formulate from the N series with 10 Volume developer depending on the desired tonal influence.

First you should identify your desired level and refer to the pHormulate Lift and Deposit Chart to select the necessary developer (usually Demi, 10 Volume or equal parts of both). Mix an equal parts formula from the Natural Warm Series. In the event the purpose is to re-freshen natural hair, apply the color from scalp to ends and process as needed. To re-touch roots only, apply the color to the base for 15-20 minutes and then pull thru for the remaining recommended processing time. Remember, if you are concerned that an off-cast will result, add 1/4 oz of TB7 and ¼ oz of Gold Red to your 2 oz formula. If you have already applied your formula, mix ½ oz of TB7 with ½ oz of water in a spray bottle. Mist on hair above the roots and then pull the base color through to the ends; this spray formula will serve as a filler.

Depending on the severity of the green cast formulate with the Natural Warm Series and add 1/8oz- ¼oz of True Red to counter extreme green. As a general rule, using a level from the Natural Warm Series with ½ oz of TB7 will prevent additional green, but the
True Red is needed to neutralize the existing green. Complete the formula with equal parts of the chosen developer and process as recommended for pigmented hair or grey coverage.