pHormulate » F.A.Q.

When lifting the hair, how can extreme lift be accomplished without pulling too brassy and without the need to add any cooling tones?

admin — Thu, 12 Feb 2009 16:58:22 +0000

With ammoniated systems, lifting the hair multiple levels will usually lead to brassiness. Since this application can be performed without harsh, more damaging ammonia, the system is able to keep the overall lifting process more balanced and controlled. When formulated correctly, it should not be necessary for you to cool and/or tone hair as the lift will be consistent and natural. The presence and “burn” of ammonia in the course of lifting the hair is reacting or “processing” in part by burning up some of the present alkali of the hair. Since this system is free of ammonia, that reduction of alkali is not taking place so that about 70% of the alkali level present before the process is preserved and left to prevent the brassiness while keeping the hair structure more balanced.

How should I formulate for best results when covering 75% or more resistant grey hair?

admin — Thu, 12 Feb 2009 16:58:04 +0000

To begin, you need to analyze the hair carefully to determine several factors that will influence the hair’s willingness to accept color. What is the percentage of grey hair? Is there one completely grey area surrounded by pigmented or partially pigmented hair? What is the texture and level of the pigmented hair if any? All of these factors must be considered. You should apply the color, with brush or bottle on very thin sections of hair, thin enough to see thru, and totally saturate these sections. When formulating with the pHormulate System for natural shades, drop one level in the N series and process at room temperature for 30 up to 45 minutes using pHormulate 20 Volume color developer in most cases.

How can I create more of a blue tone in my formulas for lower levels that may require more coolness or depth?

admin — Thu, 12 Feb 2009 16:57:48 +0000

When working in lower levels, up to level 4, you are able to intensify the perceived depth of your chosen level without dropping to a lower level by adding 1/8 oz of level 1N to your 2 oz formula. Keep in mind that this level 1N is very concentrated at the lowest end of the color spectrum and can have a strong influence on the outcome of the service. To add over 1/8 oz to a 2 oz formula may cause you to drop a level, so it is recommended that you are conservative in your formulations.

How can I eliminate the brassiness that can occur from too much sun exposure?

admin — Thu, 12 Feb 2009 16:57:30 +0000

While a color treatment shampoo and conditioning regimen, like pHormulate Revive and Repair Shampoo and Conditioner, will provide substantial UV protection to color-treated hair, you can also provide a color- based shield to help prevent some sun damage. Choose the N Series natural Level that is closest to your client’s natural or desired color. Formulate a mixture that is 1 oz of N Series Level and 1 oz of 0 mixed with 1 oz of Demi and 1 oz of 10 Volume developer (if the hair has extreme sun damage, use only Demi developer). Apply all over to shampooed and conditioned damp hair. Process for 5-15 minutes and then shampoo off.

How can I be sure to achieve the necessary desired lift?

admin — Thu, 12 Feb 2009 16:57:15 +0000

When formulating with the N Series, you are able to achieve adequate lift without gold or brassiness being mindful to process for the recommended amount of time so that your color is not under-developed. Formulate according to the pHormulate Swatch Guide and the pHormulate Lift and Deposit Chart. Knowing your client, if you can predict that extreme brassiness may present itself, add ¼ oz – ½ oz of Drabber Adjuster to the formula. Another remedy for unwanted brass is to mix equal parts of Drabber Adjuster and water and apply to the hair at the bowl. Watch carefully, usually for 7-10 minutes, for the color to neutralize. You may also need to increase developer volume and/or processing time for best results.

If the client has been highlighted repeatedly, and I need to do a tint back, how should I correct this?

admin — Thu, 12 Feb 2009 16:56:55 +0000

This is a common problem, and one that usually causes a client to leave their stylist. When highlights leap from natural to extreme they have lost their beauty. You should keep in mind that when coming down from a very light shade back to a lower level you must replace or provide warmth in your formula. With the pHormulate system, you are able to weave in lowlights and even highlights at the same time from within the same color inventory. As with any potentially corrective process, it is recommended that you perform a strand test to predict the outcome of the application. We also recommend that you and your client have a very clear consultation about the outcome of their request. Even though the client wants to be darker, you don’t want them to go into color shock after a drastic change.

You have various options to consider. If the client wants to be one base color with no highlights, formulate from the N Series with equal parts of Demi and 10 Volume Developer.

Ex. 2 oz 5N + 1 oz Demi Developer + 1 oz 10 Volume Developer
If the client wants to maintain some natural highlights while eliminating the excessive allover lightness that has evolved, foil in alternating (usually 2 lowlight foils to 1 highlight foil) formulas of above example for lowlights with a chosen high lift tone. In the event the hair is too damaged or too white you will obviously need to provide additional warmth.

Ex. 2 oz 5N +1 ¼ oz Demi Developer + 1 ¼ oz 10 Volume Developer

How can I make a Red application more vibrant or powerful and less natural in appearance?

admin — Thu, 12 Feb 2009 16:56:34 +0000

With the pHormulate intermixable concept, the colorist is able to control the presence of Natural influence versus Additive influence. Increasing the Red additive and decreasing the N Series will obviously influence the intensity of the Red. Keeping in mind that all formulas must be made up of equal parts color and developer, the creativity of the application is left up to the colorist.

What do I do if a shade of Red is too vibrant?

admin — Thu, 12 Feb 2009 16:56:16 +0000

To soften or tone down an extremely bright shade of red, select the desired level of red from the pHormulate System Swatchbook. Formulate using the desired level (N Series) with equal parts of color developer using only 10 Volume for mostly deposit, or equal parts combination of 10 Volume and Demi for less lift. Watching carefully, process as needed, usually from 10-20 minutes, at room temperature.

How can I achieve even results on lower to middle levels of color-treated hair when using the red series?

admin — Thu, 12 Feb 2009 16:55:56 +0000

Again, you can apply color to achieve these shades with confidence. You will however, need to alter your formulas. Begin by identifying your desired level from the Natural Series swatch guide and then selecting your necessary color developer. Remember that the developer you choose and the length of time processed can both affect your results.

Rather than using equal parts of N Series level and Red additive, you will use more of the chosen Red Additive to achieve your desired shade. For more vibrant results, increase the Red additive and decrease the N level in the formula. Both the True Red and Gold Red Series may be formulated with the Natural or Natural Warm levels. Remember that the actual result is up to the colorist.

Ex. For the formula True Red 7 N (Natural Level 7) use the following:
1 ½ oz True Red Additive
½ oz 7N
2 oz of chosen color developer.

How can I achieve even results on lower to middle levels of virgin hair that may look faded if I am trying to change the base to one of the red series colors?

admin — Thu, 12 Feb 2009 16:55:37 +0000

This is an example of a corrective scenario where the pHormulate System is able to make the colorist’s life much simpler. Based on the technology of no ammonia, the color application will lift evenly and consistently for over 60 minutes and stay within the correct level. You will not have to address separate areas of the hair shaft differently and you won’t have to worry about the tendencies for “hot spots”. Simply select your desired color and formulate accordingly using the correct developer as designated in the pHormulate System Lift and Deposit Chart. Remember that the actual result is up to the colorist. For more vibrant results, increase the Red additive and decrease the N level in the formula. Then you can pull the color thru from scalp to ends to achieve the most natural or vibrant reds imaginable. You can successfully accomplish this application with one formula because the stability of the color process will not cause the overall appearance to go too dark. However, if desired, you may mix up a separate formula with Demi developer, if you determine that the middle and end sections of the hair do not require the same formula.