pHormulate Store

This is a common problem, and one that usually causes a client to leave their stylist. When highlights leap from natural to extreme they have lost their beauty. You should keep in mind that when coming down from a very light shade back to a lower level you must replace or provide warmth in your formula. With the pHormulate system, you are able to weave in lowlights and even highlights at the same time from within the same color inventory. As with any potentially corrective process, it is recommended that you perform a strand test to predict the outcome of the application. We also recommend that you and your client have a very clear consultation about the outcome of their request. Even though the client wants to be darker, you don’t want them to go into color shock after a drastic change.

You have various options to consider. If the client wants to be one base color with no highlights, formulate from the N Series  with equal parts of Demi and 10 Volume Developer.

Ex. 2 oz 5N + 1 oz Demi Developer + 1 oz 10 Volume Developer
If the client wants to maintain some natural highlights while eliminating the excessive allover lightness that has evolved, foil in alternating (usually 2 lowlight foils to 1 highlight foil) formulas of above example for lowlights with a chosen high lift tone. In the event the hair is too damaged or too white you will obviously need to provide additional warmth.

Ex. 2 oz 5N +1 ¼ oz Demi Developer + 1 ¼ oz 10 Volume Developer

With the pHormulate intermixable concept, the colorist is able to control the presence of Natural influence versus Additive influence. Increasing the Red additive and decreasing the N Series will obviously influence the intensity of the Red. Keeping in mind that all formulas must be made up of equal parts color and developer, the creativity of the application is left up to the colorist.

To soften or tone down an extremely bright shade of red, select the desired level of red from the pHormulate System Swatchbook. Formulate using the desired level (N Series) with equal parts of color developer using only 10 Volume for mostly deposit, or equal parts combination of 10 Volume and Demi for less lift.  Watching carefully, process as needed, usually from 10-20 minutes, at room temperature.

Again, you can apply color to achieve these shades with confidence. You will however, need to alter your formulas. Begin by identifying your desired level from the Natural Series swatch guide and then selecting your necessary color developer. Remember that the developer you choose and the length of time processed can both affect your results.

Rather than using equal parts of N Series level and Red additive, you will use more of the chosen Red Additive to achieve your desired shade. For more vibrant results, increase the Red additive and decrease the N level in the formula. Both the True Red and Gold Red Series may be formulated with the Natural or Natural Warm levels. Remember that the actual result is up to the colorist.

Ex. For the formula True Red 7 N (Natural Level 7) use the following:
1 ½ oz True Red Additive
½ oz 7N
2 oz of chosen color developer.

This is an example of a corrective scenario where the pHormulate System is able to make the colorist’s life much simpler. Based on the technology of no ammonia, the color application will lift evenly and consistently for over 60 minutes and stay within the correct level. You will not have to address separate areas of the hair shaft differently and you won’t have to worry about the tendencies for “hot spots”. Simply select your desired color and formulate accordingly using the correct developer as designated in the pHormulate System Lift and Deposit Chart. Remember that the actual result is up to the colorist.  For more vibrant results, increase the Red additive and decrease the N level in the formula. Then you can pull the color thru from scalp to ends to achieve the most natural or vibrant reds imaginable. You can successfully accomplish this application with one formula because the stability of the color process will not cause the overall appearance to go too dark. However, if desired, you may mix up a separate formula with Demi developer, if you determine that the middle and end sections of the hair do not require the same formula.